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<a href="http://www.thearticlesense.com/article/Framing-Tips-nobody-told-you-till-now/" target="_blank">Get Paid to Submit Article like "Framing Tips nobody told you till now"</a><br /><br /><br /> What media are you going to frame?<br /> <br /> Photos?<br /> Posters?<br /> Paintings?<br /> Limited editions?<br /> Momentos?<br /> <br /> If it's a limited edition poster or important photo/family hierloom, you may wish to consider acrylic over clear glass. Plexiglass is the highest grade because it repels up to 99.95 of harmful UV rays. It is also the type of glazzing most widely used in museums b ecause of its conservatory properties.<br /> <br /> If you wish to cover irregular edges in chinese paint, or simply to "erase" someone on the furthest side of your photo, you want to use a mattboard (acts as a border around your media). Single to triple matting can create interesting looks.<br /> <br /> If it's an oil painting, no glazing is needed but it is usually stretched and stapled over a grooved stretcher.<br /> <br /> If all these 'tips' give you headache, it's probably easiest to start with frame colour and design. <br /> <br /> Think about the colour of your wall and the furniture near the wall where your frames will be hung. You want your frame to compliment your interior surroundings as well as to create suitable contrast with your wall colour or wallpaper. Your frame should not compete with the main subject of the media either!<br /> <br /> It is also much easier to pick out a mattboard colour and texture, after picking out a frame you want.<br /> <br /> Now you can decide whether you prefer a regular mounting board or an acid-free mattboard. Acid-free mattboard is paper whose acid content has been removed so they do not cause acidic staining to your media.<br /> <br /> Acid-free mattboards also indirectly protects your media as they would be the first to warn you of any mildew or fungal growth. (If happens, it's best to change both the mattboard and the top glazing.)<br /> <br /> Also consider the depth of your frame, especially if it is an oil painting on a stretcher more than an inch thick. You may not want part of your stretcher to 'stick out' from the top and sides of your frame.<br /> <br /> Now you can consider if you want non-reflective glazing, acrylic or clear glass. For certain media, non-reflective glazing may actually 'blur' fine details so try to 'test' your media with whatever glazing samples made availableto you by your framing consultant.<br /> <br /> Nowadays PVC backing is gaining more popularity - it is much lighter than plywood backing and there's no worry that termites attacking PVC.<br /> <br /> For those who prefer plywood backing, the good news is modern technology has made it possible for you to protect your wooden frame from termites - just check out your DIY store for some recommendations for anti-termite sprays!<br /> <br /> Conventionally, the top of frames hang out slightly and away from the wall. You can decide about whether you want that or if you prefer your frames to be totally flat against the wall. Your framing consultant can advise you on the available options.<br /> <br /> For those who have no wish to frame the conventional way can select top and bottom acrylic (with or without frame). This allows your wall colour to show through.<br /> <br /> And lastly, never ever hang your media in kitchens, bathrooms or anywhere near strong sunlight. Try to use "bumpers" behind frames so temperature of a 'hot wall' is isolated from the frame.<br /> <br /> Every valuable art piece loves 24 hours aircon but never switch airconditioners on and off too frequently, as art can still expand and contract within a frame. This in turn can "warp" art and the backing! You don't want a Hunchback of Notredame in your art!<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br>Want/need more free framing advice? Send your questions to kelly_actually@yahoo.com.sg Kelly is also a member of the IMVU community at http://avatars.imvu.com/qutepangy